tiistai 23. syyskuuta 2014

Costume College dress rehearsal part IV, the 1874 day dress

The last outfit change of the day was to check the overall fit and the suitability of the new bustle also with my other early bustle dress. I was consciously pushing the boundaries by dressing my hair in a traditionally girly style. It was inspired by Jen's 1870 Peterson's scan "new styles for dressing the hair" which I've always loved. I also might have stuck the bonnet a little too far on the back. But perhaps the ladies in period had such mishaps too occasionally. It's hard to judge the angle looking at yourself from the front while getting dressed. 















lauantai 20. syyskuuta 2014

Costume College dress rehearsal part III, 1871 dress, ball gown version

I also tried on the ball gown bodice of the Tissot dress. I hadn't yet decided which one to wear at the event so I wanted to see which one I'd like better. And also most of the photos of me wearing it when it was first finished didn't come out well so I took advantage of the opportunity.







Costume College dress rehearsal part II, the Tissot inspired 1871 dress

This second dress I hadn't tried on since 2011 and had already lost the original bustle that I wore with it, so I had to see if it still fit ok and looked good over my new bustle. I also wanted to practice the hairstyle so I did a quick dress change and took some photos.














perjantai 19. syyskuuta 2014

Costume College dress rehearsal part I, 1770's robe à la Polonaise à coqueluchon

This dress was one of the seven I took with me to Costume College this year. I hadn't had a  proper chance to try out all the different ways to drape the back having only worn it a couple of minutes in freezing cold when it was finished, so I wanted to try it on before I packing. And while I was at it, I did a simple hairstyle to go with it and took a couple of photos that I thought I'd share.
















perjantai 25. heinäkuuta 2014

1740's stays

I'm back from a little sewing and blogging hiatus I've been having since late March / early April. One of the last things I got finished before the break were these stays. But, for various reasons, I never tried them on until today. I still have a couple of finishing touches to make to the proper mid century shift to go under the stays, but I thought I'd post about them now anyway.

The stays are made from two layers of linen canvas, reproduction 18th century silk brocade / droguet as the top layer and linen lining. They are bound with silk grosgrain (the narrower grosgrain over seams is rayon) and hand sewn with linen thread. They are boned with reed.

They are based on the c. 1740 stays in Norah Waugh's Corsets and crinolines with only the side back seams taken in a little at the waist to fit my shape better.













Construction:

I constructed them my usual way. After outlining the pieces, I quilted the boning channels.




I inserted the boning, secured the edges and whip stitched the seam allowances down. Then I made the lacing holes.



Then I whipped the seams together, made horizontal boning cases from linen tape in the stomacher and then bound the stays.



Lastly I added the lining.